Having a custom-designed and handcrafted couture bridal gown on your special day adds an extra sprinkling of personality into the event and can make your day even more memorable. Tania recently reached out to me as her nuptials were coming up and she was looking for something made especially for her that would fit her personality and style.
During our consultation, Tania said that she loved the idea of a “mermaid” shaped gown – a type of dress that hugs the curves through the bodice and over the hips but flares out at the bottom like a mermaid’s tail. I agreed that this type of dress would complement her body shape and style beautifully.
After some further discussion about the specifics of the dress – such as fabrics, train length, neckline shape, whether she wanted sleeves or embellishments, and other details – I took Tania’s body measurements and then it was time to begin crafting her dream couture bridal gown.
The first step was to assemble the bodice of the dress. To assemble the bodice I used stretch fabric and then joined the bra cups as per Tania’s measurements. I then stitched the bra cups and wire casing onto the lace.
As Tania had decided on a backless design, I tacked the front area (where the bodice would eventually be) to the model and cut along the edge where I had tacked. The temporary stitches are removed once a permanent seam is completed. After making the cuts, I turned the bodice over to work from the opposite side. On the back of the bodice, I placed nude coloured tulle and tacked it into position. The finished tulle bodice incorporates a corset that is tacked in position prior to final stitching by hand. The finished garment is made to exact measurements
Once the tulle was in position, I removed sections of fabric along the marked lines as the design required. The sleeves were then stitched with French seams and positioned on the armholes, banding them with the same tulle cut at bias. A garment made from a woven fabric, such as tulle, is cut on the bias when the warp and weft threads of the fabric are at a 45-degree angle to its major seam lines.
The last steps include joining the outer fabric on the skirt with the lining on the waist before finally attaching it to the bodice. Once the dress is fully assembled, the lace detailing is stitched on by hand. The dress is then ready for its final fitting where further refinements are made.
The finished mermaid wedding gown is fully silk-lined and the upper section is constructed on a nude colour tulle, with a round neckline and long sleeves. The gown also incorporates a corset and closes at the back with an invisible zip.
The skirt comprises of several layers of tulle, a chapel-length train beginning above the knee, and horsehair which is incorporated in the hem. The gown is finished with beaded lace, stitched by hand in an irregular pattern.
If you’re looking for a custom-designed haute couture wedding dress get in touch with Sonia to book a free no-obligation consultation.